This article explores the renowned American brand specializing in luxury leather goods, including apparel, wallets, handbags, footwear, and accessories. The brand has become a leader in the premium accessories market. Find out more on manhattanka.
The Founding of the Brand
Coach New York, or simply Coach, is an American brand celebrated for its luxury accessories, particularly handbags and wallets, as well as clothing and footwear. Its products are crafted from high-quality leather. The brand’s flagship store is located on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan.
Coach was founded as a family-run workshop in 1941 by a group of six artisan leatherworkers in a loft on 34th Street in Manhattan. Initially, Coach produced leather billfolds and wallets. In 1946, husband and wife entrepreneurs Miles and Lillian Cahn joined the company. They soon took over the business and significantly grew it. In the 1950s, Miles refined the product manufacturing approach, focusing on material quality. He noticed that the leather in baseball gloves was different, becoming softer and more supple with use. Miles experimented with mimicking this material for his products. The resulting new leather was considerably stronger, more supple, and more flexible than previous versions. Because this type of leather absorbed dye exceptionally well, the color saturation also improved significantly. Soon after, Lillian Cahn suggested to Miles that they complement their men’s accessories line with women’s leather handbags. Her idea was a hit, as the durable cowhide bags quickly became extremely popular.
Major Growth and International Expansion
The year 1961 was pivotal for Coach. The company hired designer Bonnie Cashin, who, as creative director, revolutionized Coach’s style by creating its signature minimalist bag designs. She introduced side pockets, coin purses, and significantly brighter colors. Cashin also designed shoes, pens, and eyewear. Additionally, she incorporated distinctive hardware into clothing and accessories, notably the silver toggle closure that became a Coach hallmark. In 1979, Lewis “Lew” Frankfort became Vice President of Business Development. During this period, Coach’s sales surged, exceeding $6 million. Products were distributed through a domestic wholesale channel, primarily in the northeastern United States. The company opened its first retail store on Madison Avenue in 1981.
In 1985, Lillian and Miles Cahn sold the business to Sara Lee Corporation to focus on their goat farm and a cheese-making business called “Coach Farm” in Gallatinville, New York. Lew Frankfort subsequently succeeded Cahn as president, and the company began to expand even further. In 1986, Coach opened new boutiques in Macy’s stores in New York and San Francisco. Simultaneously, additional standalone boutiques were being built, and there were plans to open shops in other department stores soon. By November 1986, the company operated 12 stores and nearly 50 boutiques within major department stores. Later, Sara Lee Corporation gradually divested Coach, making it an independent company.
The year 1997 was also highly significant for Coach, as American fashion designer Reed Krakoff was hired. By revamping the brand’s image and making its products more functional, stylish, and versatile, he elevated Coach to international prominence, transforming it into a globally recognized name. In 2013, Coach’s sales reached $5 billion. The company operated approximately 1,000 of its own stores worldwide, including locations in Singapore, Taiwan, Korea, Europe, North America, Japan, China, and Malaysia.